Independent fine jewelry retailers speak to WWD about the challenges and pleasures of running a small business.
Independent jewelry boutiques are critical resources for brands, offering unique access to a discerning clientele. They also often contextualize designers’ work through a sophisticated point of view that is not typically seen at the department store level. And yet, owners of these boutiques across the U.S. are facing many of the same challenges as larger retailers — staffing, stocking exclusive product and remaining physically in touch with an increasingly virtual clientele. Here, eight boutique owners discuss their their current experiences:
https://wwd.com/accessories-news/jewelry/independent-jewelry-boutique-today-broken-english-pilot-powell-elyese-walker-1235662333/
Store name: Broken English Locations: Santa Monica, California, and New York
Owner: Laura Freedman
Year founded: 2006
Key jewelers carried: Foundrae, Anita Ko, David Webb, Marina B, Vram, Marie Lichtenberg, Loquet, Silvia Furmanovich, Munnu.
WWD: What is the place of an independent jewelry store in today’s retail landscape?
Laura Freedman: Independent jewelry stores are one of the cornerstones to any community. It’s the place where people go to collect pieces that commemorate moments and milestones in their lives. If you are lucky you get to be a part of the major moments in peoples lives. It becomes generational. It’s a special position to be in to be a goto place for multi generations.
WWD: How would you describe your buy and your store’s perspective on fine jewelry?
L.F.: For me it’s all about what moves me and I hope it has the same effect on my clients. I curate the store as if I am doing it for myself. What do I love, who do I feel is at the forefront of design, trends, and what I feel is missing in the market. I have so much fun doing it. Hunting for the antique and vintage. Finding new designers. The assortment is well rounded and I love that we have something for everyone.
WWD: How has your buy evolved or changed in the last six to 12 months?
L.F.: I have been leaning toward larger scale pieces. Chunky necklaces, larger stacking bangles, cocktail rings, modern and sculptural.
WWD: What is selling best now?
L.F.: We sell a lot of necklaces. That is our top category. I have been pleasantly surprised to see people be really into collars, ’70’s and ’80’s throw back. I’m a hoop girl so I tend to always have a big assortment on hand. I think they look good on everyone.
WWD: How are sales trends in general? Have you seen any effects from inflation and gold price increases? Are shoppers still buying jewelry at the same clip as during the pandemic?
L.F.: Sales have been strong. I believe that people stop to think a little more before their purchase. So far we are on track to beat last year. It’s still very strong.
WWD: What are the biggest challenges you are facing now as a retailer?
L.F.: I think the biggest challenge especially after the pandemic is finding staff. Because we don’t have the ability to create a hybrid work model it’s been hard convincing people to want to come back and work in the brick-and mortar. The consciousness shifted and it’s been hard to find exactly where we fit in the new concept of the stay at home work model.
WWD: What are you looking to buy for the coming year? Are there any trends or jewelers you plan to invest in?
L.F.: For the most part I have been working with the same designers for years. So I plan on going deeper with them and hopefully doing some collaborations. I continue to be in awe of their talent, innovation and ability to stay current. I’m always on the look out for new talent to BE. So far this year we have brought on Daniella Villegas, Sauer, Melis Goral and Diane Kordas.
